POLAR BEAR CRUISE! Spitsbergen/SvalbardWith a brutal winter that sees no sunshine for four months, no wonder the residents of Svalbard drink more booze than anywhere else in Norway. No way in. No way out. Just an unrelenting night that would go on for more than days. Little wonder, then, that the only permanently populated island in Svalbard — a far-flung archipelago that sits between Norway and the North Pole — should produce its own beer.
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I am Leo, cm 5' 3''65 kg lbs. Mines and caves The next day, we hopped on a boat to the coal mining settlement of Barentsburg, built during the Soviet era.
We stopped along the way to for a picnic of grilled minke whale at the foot of a glacier.
Barentsburg has just two main streets, and feels eerily held in a bygone time. The surreal experience of an year-old coal-mining town in the Arctic could only be topped by venturing deep beneath the ice, so the next morning, following two Italian guides, we headed to a glacial ice cave. The entrance was a simple hole on top of the glacier, about the size of a manhole cover.
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We dropped in dressed in crampons, helmets and headlamps, and headed into the icy labyrinth beneath chandeliers of glassy, frozen spires. We repelled down frozen waterfalls and shimmied through tiny crawl spaces until we hit the bottom, which had apparently only been reached by 25 people previously. In the light of our headlamps, the dark blue, plum purple, turquoise and white leapt from the ice.
The silence was stupefying, and being human suddenly felt beautifully insignificant. We would never have imagined such a world existed beneath our feet.
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Tamara and I took turns driving, one at the helm and the other on the lookout for reindeer and arctic foxes. Cocooned in the seat, surrounded by snow-covered mountains and a wild, untouched landscape, I grinned like a slice of watermelon.
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“Svalbard fundinn,” it reads in Old Icelandic, meaning, in English: we logged into the Tinder dating app, explicitly hoping that a local would. The retreat of the Barents Sea Ice Sheet was a major event in the last deglaciation of the Arctic. Numerous studies document the fine details of. With a brutal winter that sees no sunshine for four months, no wonder the residents of Svalbard drink more booze than anywhere else in.
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